The answer is, happily, not much.

Nothing much on dry land, that is. No nightlife, no bars, no shopping malls, no major towns to stroll through. There aren't even many great beaches, in the traditional sense of long stretches of powdery sand.

But underwater, it's a different story. Peek beneath the waves, and suddenly Taveuni, in the middle of nowhere, becomes a world-class draw. Whether you're a snorkeler or a scuba diver, or want to learn to do either, Taveuni is the place for you. Many of Fiji's islands are naturally blessed with abundant coral reefs, and there is excellent scuba diving and snorkeling on many of them. But Taveuni is generally considered the jewel in the Fijian crown when it comes to diving locations, all because of one site: the Rainbow Reef, home of the world-famous White Wall.

The Rainbow Reef lies at the bottom of the Somosomo Strait, between Taveuni and the island of Vanua Levu. The White Wall dive is accessed by swimming through a tunnel in the reef that opens out onto a stunning wall of white coral. Strong currents bring nutrient-rich water rushing by several times a day, providing for a diverse and colorful array of soft corals and fish of all sizes, shapes, and hues. Although you may have to wait hours or even occasionally days for currents and weather to cooperate, veterans tell us it's well worth the wait for a glimpse of this amazingly vibrant dive site.

Two excellent resorts can help you organize your scuba-diving expedition, the Garden Island Resort, and the Dive Taveuni Resort. The Garden Island Resort is not glamorous, but it is the local base of San Francisco's Aqua-Trek, and specializes in arranging diving expeditions for guests. Boats and equipment can be rented here--there's also a nitrox decompression facility that we hope you'll never need to use. Dive Taveuni offers two organized Rainbow Reef dives daily, and can rent you any piece of equipment you may need.

Not a diver? Both the Garden Island Resort and Dive Taveuni offer instruction--at the Garden Island Resort, you can get a PADI certificate.

Still wary of the deep? No worries. Snorkeling opportunities abound as well. The easiest one to get to is Korolevu Island, a tiny speck of land with a beautiful beach just a few hundred yards off Taveuni. The coral is good, the fish are abundant, and it's not uncommon to see dolphins frolicking nearby. If you've got a little more time, arrange for a guide to take you on the 20-minute ride to the Rainbow Reef. Most of the reef is too deep for snorkeling, but a guide will know the shallow places where you can find even more fish and more brightly-colored coral than at Korolevu. Your hotel can help you to arrange boat and equipment rental--especially if your hotel is the Garden Island Resort.

Exploring the Garden Isle
Did we say there's nothing to do on dry land? That's not really true. It's just that this isn't Vegas--Taveuni, nicknamed the Garden Isle, has more natural than man-made attractions.

One attraction you won't find anywhere else--well, no place you're likely to ever go--is the 180th meridian. This line separates the Eastern and Western hemispheres, and it only crosses land in three places on earth. (The others are in especially remote parts of Siberia.) This line normally acts as the International Date Line, as well. Neither the fact that the dateline officially zigzags around Fiji nor the fact that the millennium really started in 2001 stopped islanders from declaring themselves the first to greet the new millennium in the wee hours of Jan. 1, 2000. The best place to see the meridian line is on a football field about 200 meters up the road from the Garden Island Resort. There's a plaque showing which way the line goes. Look closely, and you may still see the giant 2000 painted on a nearby rooftop, and other remnants of the big bash.

Even if you're not Catholic, you're sure to enjoy a visit to the Catholic mission at Wairiki village. You may be surprised to learn that the lovely church there was built to commemorate a bloody (and in fact, cannibalistic) battle between Fiji and its former sworn enemy, Tonga. Today visitors are welcome at Sunday morning mass. American Catholics will recognize the rituals but nothing can prepare you for the gorgeous singing of the choir, which is worth listening to no matter what your religious persuasion.

Follow the coastal road to the very end and you'll find one of Taveuni's aboveground attractions: When the tide is right (mid-way between high and low is ideal), waves crashing on the rocky shore are forced through the Vuna Blowholes. If you time your visit right, you'll be treated to the sight of water shooting-up, geyser-like, 25 feet or more through the rocks.

A natural highlight of the islands is the Lavena Coastal Walk. This three-mile hike passes through the village of Lavena, and after a steep climb at the end, emerges at Wainibau Falls. The trail hugs the coast for a considerable distance, and you'll pass several fine, secluded beaches. Feel free to go for a swim--just don't succumb to the urge to skinny-dip or sunbathe topless, both cultural no-nos in these parts.